Mass Media Overview
The 10 most important cities of the Russian North
13.11.2023 09:29
https://www.rbth.com
Travel
Oct 26 2023
Anna Sorokina
‘The Russian North’ is a unique place with a civilization that formed many centuries ago on the shores of icy rivers and seas. Massive wooden houses and churches were built there without the use of a single nail and amazing traditional crafts were created that won't be found anywhere else.
The very concept of the ‘Russian North’ first appeared at the end of the 19th century in the writings of an Arkhangelsk governor, who used it to describe the common culture of the people living in the northwest of Russia. For the most part, the civilization was created by descendants of the Pomors, fishermen, who lived in these harsh locations several centuries ago.
The people of the Russian North cherish their traditions, have a similar manner of speaking, a similar cuisine and their own unique crafts.
The territory of the Russian North is considered to be delineated by the coast of the Barents and White seas, as well as the shores of the rivers Northern Dvina, Onega, Sheksna and Pechora. On today's maps, it will include the entirety of Vologda Region, almost the whole of Arkhangelsk Region, Murmansk Region, the republics of Karelia and Komi and the Nenets Autonomous Area (in the Russian Empire, these areas were part of the Arkhangelsk Governorate), as well as part of Kirov Region. Some scholars also include part of Perm Territory. Below we’ve listed the main towns and cities that have preserved the atmosphere of the Russian North.
1. Vologda (population 311,628)
The journey through the Russian North begins in Vologda, its soul and unofficial "capital". Just like Moscow, Vologda was first mentioned in 1147. Historically, Vologda was an important transport hub for trade with England.
The city is famous for its 16th-century white stone kremlin, wooden houses with carved window surrounds, icon painting and, of course, its lace making. Vologda even has a monument to the letter ‘o’ made out of metal "lacework". But why ‘o’? Because the northern dialect is distinguished by its "okanie" (pronunciation of unstressed ‘o’ as ‘o’ rather than ‘a’).
2. Veliky Ustyug (pop. 28,266)
Vologda Region has a large number of ancient towns and settlements each of which is worth a visit. The one that particularly stands out is Veliky Ustyug. It is as old as Vologda and its fairs at the time of Ivan the Terrible rivaled Moscow's. And all because of its favorable position: Two rivers – the Sukhona and the Yug – converge (‘Ust-Yug’ literally means the "estuary of the River Yug"), along which there is fast access to the Northern Dvina and then the White Sea.
Veliky Ustyug was also famous for its craftsmen: It is the birthplace of the "frost on tin" decorative technique, Shemogodskaya birch bark carving, Northern niello work on silver and many other crafts that won't be found anywhere else.
And, today, Veliky Ustyug is also one of the most popular tourist destinations in winter, since the official residence of ‘Ded Moroz’ (‘Grandfather Frost’) is located there.
3. Arkhangelsk (pop. 298,617)
4. Kargopol (pop. 8,849)
5. Kandalaksha (pop. 28,438)
6. Totma (pop. 8,647)
By modern standards, Totma, founded in 1137, is the back of beyond. It's a four-hour trip to get to Vologda! But, the extraordinary thing is there are huge churches there built in the ‘Totma Baroque’ style and decorated with lacelike stone ornamentation. Totma was the hometown of trader Ivan Kuskov, who, in 1808, led a maritime expedition to the shores of America and founded Fort Ross in California. That is why the town has the tradition of marking ‘Russian America Day’ each summer.
7. Solvychegodsk (pop. 1,952)
8. Belozersk (pop. 8,183)
Known from the mid-9th century, Belozersk is one of the country's most ancient towns. It lies on the shores of Lake Beloye and, in Old Russian times, the trade route "from the Varangians to the Greeks" – i.e. to Byzantium – passed through these parts. Archeologists believe that Belozersk was initially located 17 km to the west by the source of the River Sheksna (where the village of Krokhino was submerged in the construction of a reservoir). Nevertheless, the city has stood in its present location from at least the 14th century and there are surviving old churches and Northern wooden houses.
Roughly 40 km from Belozersk is Kirillov, another ancient Northern town, known for its Kirillo-Belozersky Monastery.
9. Kem (pop. 9,712)
10. Tikhvin (pop. 54,286)